All posts by SiVTEC_DB7

How-To/DIY: Replacing Honda Transmission Input Shaft Bearing & Throwout Bearing

AH! Sorry for the delay! 😐

I’ve been MIA for months but I am determined to add more content to this site. I intend to dedicate time everyday to update a current draft and publish a new How-To/DIY article at least once a week. Sorry for any current subscribers and/or readers who have been waiting for new articles and the second part to Replacing a Honda Transmission Input Shaft Bearing & Throwout Bearing.

But here’s the second part of the How-To/DIY article to: Replacing Honda Transmission Input Shaft Bearing & Throwout Bearing. The first article illustrated how to remove the transmission so this article will show how to open it up and replace the essential bearings. Let’s begin! 😀



 

Warning: Use this guide at your own risk. I am not a professional and am not responsible for injury to you, your vehicle, or anyone/thing else if you choose to follow this guide.


 

 

Since the transmission is off the car, first you wanna remove is the vehicle speed sensor.

Remove Vehicle Speed Sensor copy

Now it is time to remove the throwout bearing and shift fork.

Remove old throwout bearing and shift fork (1) copy Remove old throwout bearing and shift fork (2) copy Remove old throwout bearing and shift fork (3) copy Remove old throwout bearing and shift fork (4) copy

Remove the back-up light switch with a 19mm wrench.

Remove back-up light switch (1) copy Remove back-up light switch (2) copy

Remove two 12mm set screws located under the transmission. Use a magnet to catch the steel balls after uninstalling the set screws.

Set screws & steel balls (1) copy Set screws & steel balls (2) copy

Remove the 14mm reverse idler gear shaft bolt.

Reverse Idler Gear Shaft bolt copy

Remove the 32mm sealing bolt with a 1/2″ ratchet. I used my Craftsman1/2″ ratchet and a hammer to loosen the bolt.

32mm Sealing bolt (1) copy 32mm Sealing bolt (2) copy

Now time for the daunting task of actually removing the transmission casing. o_O

First, here’s the numbered sequence for removing or reinstalling the transmission casing.

Numbered sequence to remove transmission casing copy

Okay now to actually remove the transmission casing. Remove all sixteen 14mm bolts and loosen the casing with a flat-heads. You cannot immediately remove the casing yet because the snap ring is clamped onto the counter-shaft. In order to lower the transmission housing, you need to use snap ring pliers to remove it from the groove of the counter-shaft bearing. If done properly, then there will be a “thumb” sound indicating the counter-shaft bearing is loosened from the snap ring.

Removing transmission casing (1) copy Removing transmission casing (2) copy Removing transmission casing (3) copy Removing transmission casing (4) copy Removing transmission casing (5) copy

Now jiggle the transmission casing off. Here you can see the groove where the snap ring clamps onto the counter-shaft’s bearing. There is a visual representation of the inside of the casing where I pointed out the “groove” for the counter-shaft’s “finger” to slide into when it is time for reassembly.

Removing transmission casing (6) copy Removing transmission casing (7) copy Removing transmission casing (8) copy

This would be a great opportunity to clean the transmission’s magnet.

Clean magnet (1) copy Clean magnet (2) copy

Uninstall the reverse change holder held by two 10mm bolts.

Reverse Change Holder (1) copy Reverse Change Holder (2) copy

Remove the reverse idler gear and reverse idler gear shaft by pulling it straight up.

Reverse Ilder Gear & Shaft copy

Remove the shift change holder assembly held by three 10mm bolts.

Shift Change Holder Assembly (1) copy Shift Change Holder Assembly (2) copy

Now that the shift change holder assembly and reverse change holder are both removed, it is time to remove the main-shaft, counter-shaft, and shift forks. Grab everything as one unit upward and out of the transmission casing. This will take some time but jiggle it around and the main-shaft, counter-shaft, and shift forks will surely come out. Lay the transmission components in a plastic sheet and cover them to avoid dust.

Removal of mainshaft & countershaft copyTransmission Internals copy

There will be two washers left, a regular washer and a spring washer. Remember that the spring washer is under the regular washer when reassembling the transmission.

Transmission washers copy

Now time to remove the old input shaft bearing out of the clutch housing. I used a 3/8″ extension with a 5/8″ socket and hammered out the old bearing.

Remove old input shaft bearing (1) copy Remove old input shaft bearing (2) copy Remove old input shaft bearing (3) copy Remove old input shaft bearing (4) copy

Remove the old oil seal with a flat head. Clean surface area for new bearing.

Remove old oil seal (1) copy Remove old oil seal (2) copy

Time to install the new OEM parts. WOOT! 😀

New Clutch Housing & Throwout bearings copy

Thoroughly clean the surface, press the new oil seal in the clutch housing and then press in the new input shaft bearing. I used my shift knob and old input shaft bearing and hammered the new one in, ensuring there was even pressure. You can use whatever you want but just make sure to have even pressure when pressing in the new input shaft bearing.

UPDATE: Press the bearing in with a Honda Bearing Driver (part #: 07749-0010000) and 52mmx55mm attachment (Part #: 07746-0010400), if you have access to them.

Otherwise, use a socket that measures the same size as the circumference of the bearings outer race, attach that to an extension, place over the bearing and drift into place.

*Thanks for the tip, EnjoyTheRideDC2.

Press in new input shaft bearing copy

Now that the new input shaft bearing in installed, it is time for reassembly. I did not record this part but will thoroughly explained in steps:

1) Position the spring washer and the washer onto the main-shaft bearing.

2) Install the main-shaft, counter-shaft, and the shift forks. Make sure to align the finger of the interlock with the groove in the shift fork shaft.

Reinstall the shift change holder assembly.

Reinstall shift change holder assembly (1) copy Reinstall shift change holder assembly (2) copy

Reinstall reverse change holder & reverse idler.

Reinstall reverse change holder & reverse ilder (1) copy Reinstall reverse change holder & reverse ilder (2) copy

Now I applied Permatex 81160 Hi-Temp liquid gasket to the surface of the transmission housing which is red in the image below and works with no problems.

Tip: When reinstalling sealer bolts and mating transmission case halves, be sure to use Hondabond, if possible.

*NOTE* Remove dirt and oil from the sealing surface; Seal the entire circumference of the bolt holes to prevent oil leakage; and If 20 minutes have passed after applying liquid gasket, reapply it and assemble the housings, and allow it to cure at least 30 minutes before filling with transmission fluid.

Seal transmission's case surface with liquid gasket copy

I did not record this part neither because reassembly can essentially be seen during dis-assembly above. But here are the next steps:
1) Install the dowel pins.

2) Install the transmission housing by aligning the groove in the housing with the finger of the main-shaft.

3) Lower the transmission housing with the snap ring pliers and set the snap ring in the groove of the counter shaft bearing.

4) Install the transmission hanger and back-up light switch clamp then tighten the transmission housing attaching bolts in the numbered sequence.

5) Install the 32mm sealing bolt with applied liquid gasket on the threads.

6) Install the reverse idler gear shaft bolt, set screws with steel balls, and back-up light switch.

For the next part, it is recommended by Honda to use only Super High Temp Urea Grease (P/N 08798-9002).

Super High Temp Urea Grease (1) copy

Now that the transmission is assembled back together, it is time for the shift fork and throwout bearing. Apply the Super High Temp Urea Grease to the parts shown in the images.

Super High Temp Urea Grease (2) copy Super High Temp Urea Grease (3) copy Super High Temp Urea Grease (4) copy Super High Temp Urea Grease (5) copy

Finished! Now reinstall the transmission back on the car which is the reverse orders from my previous DIY.

Thanks for reading my How-To/DIY article on Replacing Honda Transmission Input Shaft Bearing & Throwout Bearing. 😀 🙂

How-To/DIY: Remove Honda B-series Transmission

This How-To/DIY article illustrates how to remove a Honda B-series transmission from the engine block. The step was necessary for me to remove since I would be replacing the input shaft bearing and throwout bearing.

NOTE: Input shaft bearing = Clutch housing bearing


So I have been hearing a weird and loud whining noise coming from my transmission and from research, it sounds like the input shaft bearing was becoming faulty. The throwout bearing was also another reason for the whining noise but from research, if you press in the clutch and the noises disappear, then that signifies the throwout bearing being the issue. This was not the case as the whining would occur when I start the car then disappear and then come back with depression of the clutch pedal. It was a very random whining that did not affect the transmission functioning properly.

I later learned it was my cooling fan making a loud noise but this is still a good informative How-To/DIY article for my fellow readers 🙂

WARNING: USE THIS GUIDE AT YOUR OWN RISK. I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL AND AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR INJURY TO YOU, YOUR VEHICLE, OR ANYONE/THING ELSE IF YOU CHOOSE TO FOLLOW THIS GUIDE.

First action that I need to do is remove the transmission off the car in order to replace both input shaft bearing and throwout bearing.

So let’s begin the transmission overhaul procedure! 😀

Step 1:

  • Disconnect the battery cables
  • Remove the center caps off the wheels
  • Loosen the 32mm spindle/axle nuts with a 1 1/4″ socket since it is on the ground and difficult to remove without air tools

I used a breaker bar to make the task easier for myself. If you are still finding this difficult with the breaker bar, try a longer break bar to add more torque for yourself. Do not force yourself to loosen the spindle castle nut because it is not worth the possible injury or stripping of the nut. Either get a longer, sturdier breaker bar.

After the axle nuts are loosen, proceed to jack the car up and have it properly supported by jack stands. It is also a good idea to place your wheels under the car just for added safety. A good thought: Better to be safe than sorry.

Remember: SAFETY FIRST!

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Step 2:

  • Remove the splash-guard
  • Drain the transmission fluid by removing the drain plug with a 3/8″ ratchet

Optional step: Remove the front lower tie bar or H-brace. You can see my Carbing bar took a beaten. 😛

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Step 3:

Removed my AEM air intake duct by loosing the clamps with a flat-head

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Step 4:

  • Disconnect the grounds and starter motor cables off the transmission
  • Now the starter itself held by two 14mm bolts

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Step 5:

Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) connector and the back-up light switch connector

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Step 6:

  • Uninstall the slave cylinder held by two 12mm bolts
  • Place the slave cylinder to the side

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Step 7:

  • Uninstall the exhaust pipe A/catalytic converter or header.

This applies to those with an engine stiffener or need the extra space to work on the car. I didn’t remove it on mines as I could maneuver around the bolts I needed to remove so no images.

Step 8:

  • Uninstall the damper forks held by a 17mm bolt/nut on the bottom and a 14mm bolt on the top behind it
  • On the bottom, remove the castle nut and remove the cotter pin with pliers
  • Separate the ball joints loose to allow for free play of the knuckle

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Now a trick or tip I learned to separate the ball joints:

  • Use a jack to lift the knuckle high enough
  • Place a 1/2″ ratchet between the lower control arm and the lower part of the knuckle
  • Lower the jack and remove
  • Place downward pressure on the knuckle by standing or stomping on the top

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This trick basically allows a 1/2″ ratchet to rest in between both metal suspension components and when you lower the jack and apply pressure downward on the knuckle but stepping on it, you can get the ball joints to separate from its grease. This method is easy and does not risk tearing the ball joints. An alternative is to use a pickle fork which may tear at the grease ball joints if done improperly or ball joint separator which is the proper method.

Step 9:

  • Remove the 32mm axle castle nuts
  • Move the knuckle out of the lower control arm and outward to have the axle slide out
  • Remove the three upper 14mm bolts to remove the driver side intermediate shaft, located near the oil filter
  • Loosen the set rings with a flat-head and jiggle the axle shafts out the transmission housing
  • Remove the axles and place plastic bags over the drive-shaft ends to avoid contaminants

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Step 10:

Uninstall the shift linkage.

  • Disconnect the extension rod, held by a 12mm bolt and 2 extension end washers
  • Disconnect the shift rod, held by a 8mm spring pin

Now a trick or tip I learned to remove the 8mm spring pin without a 8mm punch pin:

Hammer it out by using a header-to-catalytic converter exhaust bolt or a AC Compressor bolt.Of course, if you have a 8mm punch pin, I recommend using this tool instead. DO NOT HIT THE ALUMINUM TRANSMISSION CASING; CAN CAUSE CRACKS TO HOUSING.

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Step 11:

Remove the clutch/flywheel cover.

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Step 12:

Remove the transmission torque mount held by three 17mm bolts on the transmission and two 14mm bolts on the chassis.

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Step 13:

Support the transmission’s weight with a jack and another jack to support the weight of the engine block. The stock OEM scissor jack can also work to support the weight of the engine block.

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Step 14:

Now time for the big task to remove all the bolts from the transmission mounted to the engine block.

  • Remove the three 17mm upper transmission mounting bolts on top of the transmission casing
  • Loosen the long 17mm bolt connecting the mount to the sub-frame
  • Remove three 17mm nuts on the mount connecting to the sub-frame
  • Remove the two rear 17mm transmission mounting bolts connecting to the engine’s block on the rear mount T-bracket
  • Remove the two 19mm bolts on the rear mount T-bracket

I only have one Hasport Billet mount because it is a Auto-to-Manual transmission mount I needed to convert my car from an automatic to five-speed transmission! 😀

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Step 15:

Now that all the bolts holding the transmission to the engine block is removed, you can now remove it altogether.

  • Be careful and jiggle the transmission and slowly remove it away from the engine’s block outward with a jack as a support.
  • Avoid damaging the main-shaft’s spine or the pressure plate’s diaphragm spring fingers.
  • Drag the transmission out from the car and place it upright on two wood pieces and begin to disassemble the Honda B-series transmission!

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Anytime I work with my car, I try to avoid injuring my hands as much as possible and the only serious cut I got was this one on my middle finger after slicing it deep from the sharp edges of the transmission. The injury looks small here as I allowed it to heal as you can see the discoloration compared to the rest of my hand.

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I always try to keep my hands clean and free of injuries because I learned that having hands, especially healthy ones, are crucial in everyday life! From using utensils to eat food and drinking water to moving a box upstairs or holding a door for the elderly. Just imagine a day without the use of your writing hand, I DARE YOU! Because I can surely say that without your writing hand, it will feel very strange and odd to use your opposite hand to get tasks done as the muscle memories are not familiarized to you.

Getting out of hand, haha get it 😛 but just wanted to stress the importance of wearing gloves and using proper techniques to protecting your hands.

Well that is all for now, stay tuned for another How-To/DIY article with upcoming tutorial where I replace the clutch housing bearing and throwout bearing. 😀

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